The Palermo Winemaker Who Arrived on the Volcano: Giulia Monteleone's Vision for Etna

A New Era for Etna Wines

Giulia Monteleone is a name that resonates in the world of wine. She arrived on the slopes of Mount Etna ten years ago, bringing with her a fresh perspective. As a young producer from Palermo, Giulia has traveled extensively, making connections with those who sell and promote her wines. Her use of English reflects a generation of winemakers who view the volcano from a global perspective. Today, she produces over 40,000 bottles in a cellar established three years ago in the Cuba district. "Seven hectares in total," she points out, highlighting their location between the north and east slopes.

Giulia's journey on Etna began in 2017, and now, on the eve of her tenth harvest, she has a clear understanding of the region's current state. "I think it's going through a bit of a reorganization," she shares in an interview with Cronache di Gusto. This follows her discussions with other notable winemakers, such as Ciro Biondi and Marco Nicolosi Asmundo. "It's certainly the area in Italy, and especially in Southern Italy, that's generating the most buzz abroad."

The Challenge of Hype and Quality

"But after the hype comes the time for confirmation," she continues. Giulia emphasizes that all producers must step up to demonstrate that Etna is not just a trendy place for winemaking; it has the potential to be a classic wine region, akin to the Langhe or Montalcino.

To achieve this, clarity is essential. "I fear there's a lot of confusion about the labels on the market," she explains. Some wines are considered questionable, which hampers the understanding of Etna's capability to produce high-quality wines. The energy flowing into the volcano is a richness, but the beauty of the area attracts many enthusiasts who may lack the necessary skill. "Enthusiasm must be transformed into wine," she states.

On one hand, the vibrancy of the region is appealing. It attracts small investors and young people eager to enter the wine world. On the other hand, the market must offer products that reflect this passion and ambition. The risk is clear: if a consumer unfamiliar with Etna starts their journey with a few incorrect labels, they may form a negative impression of the region.

The Price-Quality Equation

The issue of pricing is also crucial during this restructuring phase. Giulia expresses concern over bottles of Etna selling for over one hundred euros. "Sometimes, especially when you drink blind, you're truly disappointed," she admits. The viticulture on Etna is heroic and expensive. Most operations are manual, especially in ancient vineyards, leading to production costs that are significantly higher than in other regions.

For producers who have proven their ability to create exceptional wines, high prices are justified. "It's right that Etna should be given the dignity of other territories," she asserts. However, not every bottle warrants a high price, and many wines with inflated prices linger on shelves without selling. "It’s clear that it doesn’t work commercially either," she notes.

The Future is Bright for White Wines

Looking ahead, Giulia has a clear vision for the future of Etna wines. She believes that white wines will surpass reds in volume. "In my opinion, there will be a core of great Etna Rossos, but a greater volume of Etna Biancos, which are simpler and more drinkable," she explains. However, she emphasizes the need for patience with Carricante, which requires time to develop.

Her experience supports this shift. "Five years ago, I sold 70 percent red and 30 percent white; now I'm almost at 60 percent white and 40 percent red." The growth of the white wine sector is evident, particularly in international markets. Yet, quality remains paramount. "A Carricante from my terroir should truly have at least six to nine months of bottle aging, if not twelve, which would be ideal."

Giulia has proposed increasing Carricante yields per hectare to the Consortium. "In my opinion, 95 percent of a hectare is a low yield," she argues. Carricante is a productive variety, and she believes that the current practices sometimes lead to grapes being left on the ground during harvest. "It's a shame," she adds.

Conquering New Markets

Giulia's perspective on Etna's future is informed by her practical experience in the market. Her company currently produces around 42,000 bottles, with the United States being the most significant market, particularly New York and California. However, entering a market requires more than just finding a distributor. "You have to be present, know your customers, and team up with salespeople," she advises.

Even a challenging day in the market can yield positive outcomes. "Sometimes, representatives get embarrassed and say, 'I'm sorry, it was a terrible day.' I always laugh and say, 'Absolutely not.' For me, it's about teamwork," she explains. Building relationships is crucial, as these representatives serve as the primary commercial ambassadors for her wines.

Giulia has no intention of chasing volume. "I absolutely don't want to increase production. This year, I'll maintain last year's numbers, if I can," she states. The focus is on consolidation, not multiplication. Currently, she has six labels and plans to maintain this number. "It's better to focus on the crus," she believes, aiming for increasingly higher quality.

Investing in Infrastructure

If Giulia could make a strategic investment in the Etna wine system, she would prioritize infrastructure over new bottles. "It would be great if we could all work together to develop warehouses, shared spaces for storing bottles," she suggests.

Her vision is concrete: "If I had €500,000 to invest in my company, I would immediately build a warehouse in a 1,500-2,000 square meter building area to share with five or six companies." This streamlined structure could aid logistics and address a common challenge faced by many small wineries on the volcano.

A Critical View on Wine Tourism

Giulia also shares her thoughts on wine tourism, expressing skepticism about its current state. "I see a lot of improvisation in wine tourism here," she remarks. Opening a house or wine cellar, serving a platter of cured meats and cheeses, and charging a significant sum without genuine experience adds little value.

She conducted a personal experiment and found that "ninety percent of the people I meet who say, 'I've been to Etna, I've been to wineries,' often don't remember where they've been or what they drank." As a result, she only opens her company on specific occasions, focusing on groups suggested by importers or important clients.

Quality Over Quantity

Ultimately, the conversation circles back to the core issue: Etna is undergoing a transformation and must decide its future direction. Giulia's recipe for success is straightforward: "Quality and minimal improvisation." She advocates for projects that make sense and invest in the local area.

This doesn't mean everyone must build a large winery overnight. "It's right that there be progression over the years and that we strengthen our entrepreneurial skills," she emphasizes. However, one element must be present from the start: "The vision."

Giulia envisions an Etna that moves beyond mere discovery into a phase of recognition. "More quality, more quality, more quality." This mantra reflects her belief that Etna has all the credentials to become a classic in the world of wine.

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