Discovering Italy's Lesser-Known Wine Varieties

what wine was that

A journey through some unique Italian Grapes

Some say there are over 500 grape varieties in Italy. I have heard there are 750. If you have thoughts on this, let me know. Here are ten lesser-known varieties that are making a comeback.

1. Timorasso (Piedmont)

Timorasso is a revived, high-quality white grape from Piedmont. It is strongly associated with the Colli Tortonesi hills around Tortona, in Alessandria. Once nearly lost, it’s now one of Italy’s most talked-about “rediscovered” whites. This variety produces some of Italy's most unique wines. Although it is difficult to make for various reasons, it is worth sourcing if you enjoy minerally, herbaceous wine styles.

2. Pecorino (Abruzzo/Marche)

Don't confuse this with the cheese of the same name. Pecorino is Italy's biggest success story of the 21st century. It was nearly extinct back in 1980 until a vintage was made in 1990 from Pecorino mother plants when Cocci Grifoni produced the first official Pecorino wine. Typically, it is crisp and aromatic, featuring notes of lemon, grapefruit, green apple, pear, white flowers, and sage/thyme-like herbs. It often finishes with a light almond or saline/mineral touch.

3. Nascetta (Piedmont)

According to Ian De Agata, "there are native grapes found in only one country. Then there are native cultivars found only in one region." Nascetta is a one-town native, only found in the hamlet of Novello. In the 1990s, producers in and around Novello began to identify and replant it, bottling it on its own. This effort proved it could make distinctive, quality dry whites. Its comeback led to official appellation recognition in the Langhe area, where you’ll commonly see it labeled as Langhe Nascetta. Today, it is considered one of Piedmont’s key “rediscovered” native whites. Historically, it was valued locally for fragrant wines and was sometimes made in slightly richer styles. Today, it’s mostly produced as a dry, aromatic white, with some examples made to age.

4. Pallagrello Bianco (Campania)

Pallagrello Bianco is a rare white grape from northern Campania, best known today from the Caserta area around the slopes of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano. It was historically prized but largely disappeared after phylloxera and vineyard replanting. It has been revived over the last few decades. This grape typically delivers lemon zest, pear, and yellow plum, with white-floral and Mediterranean herbal notes. It often finishes with a gentle almond nuance and, in some wines, a subtle salty-mineral edge. More about texture than razor-sharp acidity, Pallagrello Bianco can feel rounded and medium-bodied, whether made in crisp stainless-steel styles or richer versions with lees aging and restrained oak.

5. Carricante (Etna, Sicily)

Carricante is a one-zone variety, primarily grown on Mount Etna. Total production is limited compared to other big Italian whites. For years, it was used largely in Etna Bianco blends, so the grape name wasn’t always highlighted on labels. It thrives at extremely high altitudes. As of 2024, there are only approximately 300 hectares planted, double the amount from 2010. There are examples of this variety available and being produced in Australia. Chalmers Wines is bringing in rootstock and producing this wine style.

6. Grillo (Sicily)

Grillo became important to Marsala because it helped maintain freshness and structure after fortification and long oxidative aging. For much of the 19th and 20th centuries, Grillo was commonly used as a core blending grape alongside varieties like Catarratto and Inzolia in the base wines that would become Marsala. Producers could adjust blends depending on the style and house preference, but Grillo’s role was often to add backbone and longevity. As demand for Marsala changed and plantings in western Sicily evolved, Grillo’s identity was sometimes “hidden” inside blends. The modern boom in dry, unfortified Grillo has brought the grape back into the spotlight. In Australia, the best examples of Grillo come from Lino Ramble in McLaren Vale.

7. Nerello Mascalese (Etna, Sicily)

Nerello Mascalese is often called “lesser-known” mainly because it’s not widely planted or marketed outside its home region, even though it is highly regarded. It is strongly tied to Mount Etna in Sicily, with limited plantings elsewhere, mainly in Calabria. Most wine drinkers don’t encounter it often. However, since Etna became the hottest region for wine production in Italy, Nerello is the red everyone is talking about. Try the Benanti; it’s a standout example. Smaller production is typical, as Etna has many small growers and relatively modest yields, so there’s less volume reaching mainstream shelves. Compared to Italy’s big categories like Prosecco, Pinot Grigio, Chianti, and Barolo, Nerello gets less export and supermarket presence.

8. Schioppettino (Friuli)

Schioppettino, a red grape, is grown in small quantities, mainly in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, especially around Colli Orientali del Friuli/Prepotto. It was close to disappearing in the 20th century when a new law prohibited the planting of Schioppettino in Prepotto. It only regained momentum relatively recently, so it hasn’t built broad global recognition. This single-region variety has become somewhat of a cult wine in recent years, and many believe it is bound for stardom. Most production comes from small estates and is sold locally or through specialist importers, not mass-market channels. Try Billy Button wines in Australia for this variety. The grape is also known as Ribolla Nera, and the unfamiliar name makes it harder to market internationally. Friuli is better known globally for its white wines, so its distinctive reds get less attention.

9. Cesanese (Lazio)

Cesanese is one of Lazio’s signature red grapes, long associated with the hill towns southeast of Rome, particularly around Piglio (Ciociaria). Its modern reputation is closely tied to Cesanese del Piglio, which was elevated to DOCG status—a useful historical marker showing official recognition of its quality potential. For much of the 20th century, it was often used for simple local reds and sometimes blends. However, a quality-driven shift toward lower yields and better sites has helped redefine it. The grape’s identity is strongly place-linked, and adding a line about it being a “Rome/Lazio native” helps readers understand its cultural significance.

10. Susumaniello (Puglia)

Susumaniello, especially in Salento/Brindisi, was once widely replaced by higher-yielding grapes and survived in small old-vine pockets. Its return is a genuine “forgotten grape” comeback story, having been back on the radar for the past two decades. The name is often linked to “somarello” (little donkey), referencing how young vines could “carry” heavy crops—an easy, memorable detail. Producers use it for rosato (bright, savoury) and reds ranging from juicy and unoaked to more structured, sometimes with gentle oak. Many of the best examples come from older vineyards and are strongly tied to a specific part of Puglia, giving them authenticity and a clear sense of place.

Conclusion

Ian D'Agata is the author of what I consider the bible of Italian grapes, Native Wine Grapes of Italy. For far more detail than I have compiled here, if you are into varietal wines like I am, get a copy of his book. It took 13 years to research and write, and it’s an amazing read. By the way, Ian D'Agata says there are 377 varieties, while the National Registry of Grape Varieties states there are 461 varieties authorised for cultivation in Italy. Whats your count?

For more information on varietals in Australia, visit www.vinodiversity.com.